2015-02-26 05:58:57 | XKE Data writes:

The record was updated:

2015-12-22 18:13:25 | XKE Data writes:

The record was updated:

2016-01-28 19:25:04 | XKE Data writes:

The record was updated:

2013-05-15 07:02:11 | pauls writes:

Ebay item 5/15/13
cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1972-Jaguar-E-type-12-cylinder-4-spd-manual-72-spoke-chr ...
Current bid $4,050 reserve not met, 10 bids 6 days left in auction.

Sellers description:
I am selling a 1972 E V12. Body is very straight and shows no signs of accidents, most of all in the bonnet.

Pros:
Nice straight body, no rust to be seen.
Floors rust free
A/C
Rear defrost window
Very nice interior, no tears and still nice deep blue. The bolster on the left side driver is worn form color but no ripped.
Manual, not a lot to be had. Most were automatic
Wires are nice and can be cleaned with a few spokes needing to be replaced.
Tires are in like new condition Michelin white walls.
All chrome is there
Glass is in nice shape
Windows roll up and down

Not so goods:
The right bank of 6 has a bent valve in the number 1 cylinder
Car has no leaks, it can be said that sitting cars will not leak. British cars will.
Clutch is flat with no pressure, don't know the reason. Could be bad master???
Car was a light blue, close to a French blue. It is now white and was probably done by some DB with a paint booth in his basement.
The engines numbers do not match, I was told this by prior owner and will verify now that the car is in my garage.

2015-02-24 17:01:53 | Brendan writes:

Restoring the car to original color, changing the bonnet to receive the covered headlamps. D type knock offs. Six weber set up. I have always loved the series III, nice V12 sound... not mine as it is 17 months into the motor rebuild. Getting it back this next month

2015-12-20 19:36:35 | Brendan Duffy writes:

Bought this 2 years with the idea that it required very little to get her running, yeah.... I had the motor completely rebuilt, pistons, rings, etc. The heads were shot so I had to source a new set from another EV12. These were very close to new. Stripped the body down to bare metal, new OEM color light blue. New floors, bulkheads and section under the gas tank. Completely new interior including dash pad. New wiring harness under the bonnet. Converted the headlights back to series one, all chrome re-done, new seals all around, Nardi steering wheel. A/C delete and D type racing wheels sourced from Realm Engineering

2016-01-28 13:45:23 | pauls writes:

Car returns to ebay 1/28/16
www.ebay.com/itm/Jaguar-E-Type-Leather-/201513014576
Current bid US $5,100 reserve not met 4 bids 6 days left in auction. Seller jager61, 85k miles.

Sellers description:
1972 E Type Jaguar V12 manual
Purchased in early 2013
Completely restored engine
Body professionally stripped and painted original color
85,000 original miles on body
D-Type racing wheels
New interior kit purchased
Chrome re-done
New brakes
New clutch
New complete seal kit
Many new parts

1972 E Type V12, purchased in early 2013 after I left the Army. When I picked up the car I was told by the PO that the 1st cylinder on the right bank of six had made contact with a valve and either damaged the valve and or cylinder. As it turns out, the motor needed everything. I took the motor to a Jaguar guru who lives and works near Golden, Colorado and this is the news I received back:

"Crank pins (rod journals) are right on the money. The journal surfaces look good and mike good. I'll get into the mains a little later today. Rod bearings are corroded. They don't look like they've been run but the bearing white metal surfaces are completely dotted with acid corrosion marks. They need replacement. The main bearings will get replacement as well. I pulled four piston/rod assemblies. The cylinders have a ridge but we are going to work with this as I'm sure there isn't budget headroom for replacements. The piston ring lands are OK. Top lands are a little loose at 0.005" but serviceable. The second scraper is good at 0.0035. Bottom line here is if the remainder of the pistons are like these examples, pistons are good to go. The ring end gaps are way out of spec and the sealing surfaces are not good, so you get a new set of rings.

The hard part. The cylinder sleeves. Here's my plan. There is a ridge at the top of all of the cylinders. If I put new rings in the engine they will strike the ridge and the new top rings will break or be damaged. Two of the cylinders are leaking coolant to the crankcase now so at least two have to come out of the block. This is a dirty messy job but it does allow me to get the block clean enough to reassemble and get some assurance that none of the liners will leak into the crankcase. As a bonus here, I can also get all of the scale and sludge out of the cooling areas around the cylinders so cooling will not be an issue. Removal of the ridges requires the use of a ridge reamer which puts considerable torque on the sleeves and will loosen them. So they will need to come out for re-sealing. So, I pull all of the studs, pull the crank and timing gear, flywheel and clutch and drop the crank out. Ridge ream the cylinders. Hone the cylinders to a break-in pattern for the new rings. Pull the cylinder sleeves from the block, pressure wash the block (it will look bad as the last person to work on the engine simply painted the block inside and out so it looks nice but isn't really clean) to remove the swarf from ridge reaming, honing and scale removal from the water jacket area. The sleeves now get a wire brush job on the OD, the sleeve IDs are now wire brushed to white metal and the engine is now ready for reassembly after cleaning up all of the internal parts.

With all of the internal parts cleaned up and ready for reassembly, the liners go back in with sealer on the ODs, the crank, oil pump, timing gear equipment, new rear main seal, new main bearings, new rod bearings, freshly re-ringed clean pistons, get installed and torqued to spec. The heads need to go on within 72 hours of the assembly process to insure a good seal at the bottom of the liners. If this can't happen, I will install liner hold down plates so they can't move while the heads get prepared for final assembly. I use a purpose designed assembly lube on all rotating components. The cylinders get no lubricant other than 5-15 cheapo motor oil until the engine is ready to start and get under load to seat the rings."

Nutshell: I had engine completely rebuilt.

I stripped the car down to bare metal, and the hotrod painter here in Estes Park cut out the rust, which was very little. Some behind the passenger door and a little behind the rocker on passenger side. The car was blocked and sanded three times, two coats of base and two coats clear. Paint is original Light Blue by Spies Hecker.

I had the front floors cut out as well as the bulkheads on both sides and replaced, produced by Martin Robey. Also had the section in the boot under the fuel tank replaced, as it turns out nobody makes these sections for the E type anymore, so the shop that did all the metal work hand fabricated one. All jack points are exceptionally strong.

I also sourced a set of Six NOS Italian Weber's IDF 40, and all adapters for the manifold, Carbs have never been used. They look incredible, linkage will have to be sourced by next owner.

The wires that came on the car were less the desirable. I sold them and bought a set of four 15x6 D-Type racing wheels, splined. Sourced from England. They have a new set of Michelin tires never on the road.

I have a brand new interior kit from SNG Barratt, includes everything needed for the interior, except the seats which are in beautiful condition. The leather is very nice and supple, except the corner of the rear seat which my Wife's dog chewed. Yes, he is still alive.

I have a new seal kit that covers every bit of rubber gasket and seals for the series III, purchased through Terry's Jaguar.

All the chrome has been redone, front bumpers, three rear, A post chrome, bumperette"s, door trim below window, have all trim from the interior trim (not done) and chrome from gutter rails, sills, doors etc.

I have all glass, door glass needs replacing. Sand blaster got a little crazy. They are around $80 a piece from SNG. Rear glass is original heated and original to car.

I did change the bonnet to a series I with covered headlamps. Looks great, the conversion came from Chuck at Monocoque Metal Works. Chuck does great fabrication! If you are a purist you can easily convert back to a Series III. My goal was to rally this car with other Vets throughout the US.

Structurally the Jag is in great shape, there is a massive amount of extras including the old interior that comes with the car. The hard part of the project is finished.